Day 9: The Other Tour – Dinner with live traditional Turkish band

We finished our long, involved day at a Turkish restaurant.  We had been on our feet for over 11 hours and were completely exhausted.  I nearly fell asleep at the table!  It was a lovely place, though.  Exposed brick, soft lighting, and lively music created a warm, friendly atmosphere.  They had a traditional Turkish live band playing for us and the food was traditional too.  It was very good, of course.   We tried raki for the first time that night.  It tastes similar to ouzo, like black licorice.  Chris hardly ever drinks, but he took to ouzo and raki.

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Good food, good people, good conversation all added up to a fantastic night to top off an already amazing day.  Our third night in Istanbul was complete!

Day 9: The Other Tour — Okey in a café and Turkish bath

Sorry this has taken so long to update.  I have been working on some personal changes recently, and I will absolutely be updating on a more regular schedule more often.  Thanks so much for reading!

From the Rum neighborhood we walked over to a great little café to have drinks and play okey – a tile game a lot like rummikub.  I have played rummikub with my family, so I picked up okey very quickly.  We were so tied, though.  I remember sitting and trying to talk to everyone but desperately wanting to fall asleep in my chair.  Luckily there was a little puppy running around the café that Chris and I got to snuggle and it helped me to wake up.

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The puppy and I playing okey

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We also had this fantastic drink, salep, which was a warm, sweet, thick drink that tasted like cinnamon.  Mmmm!

Salep, common drink in cold weather.

Salep, a common drink in cold weather.

From there, we headed to an authentic Turkish bath.  This is one of the highlights of the whole day.  I highly recommend the experience for anyone visiting the area.

We began by stepping into a mixed gender entrance with a fountain and lovely domed ceiling.  From there we split off into the women’s section where a woman directed us to numbered changing rooms.  I brought along a bathing suit to wear into the baths, but, to tell you the truth, there was no need for modesty.  Everything is sopping wet in there and when they massage you, suits get in the way, so it was much easier to leave modesty at the door.

From the changing rooms we were led into an area of mostly white marble and the air gets very warm and steamy.  There are toilets you can use on the way in and then it opened up into a large sectioned room of blue and white and gray marbles.  You are only given this thin sarong to wear inside and within moments it is sopping wet.  The sound of running water is everywhere.

There is a wooden steam room at the back which we were told to go into first.  Basically, this is hot and dry, the air superheated, and you stay in for as long as you can stand, which most likely isn’t very long.  From there you step back out into the open area and wait your turn for the massages.

We were not sure what to expect.  No real instructions were given and the girls did not speak much English.  So, the other ladies from my tour and I mostly sat on the warm marble benches and waited our turns, chatting amicably.  The benches are in square sections to the side of the middle of the room.  The center of the bath has large, low heated daises where the women do the massages.  The side area where we sat, I’ll call it the waiting area, had raised marble lining the square’s edge where we sat, and it was punctuated by sinks of constantly running water with little plastic bowls floating in them.  These are used to throw water over yourself to rinse off after the first and second parts of the massage.  The floors are all slick with water everywhere as are the benches, so you are waterlogged immediately, but so is everyone else, so, even those of us on the shy side didn’t mind after a while.  The girls doing the massages work in bathing suits.

The first part of the massage is an exfoliation.  The girl calls you over and rubs you down with a rough sponge.  This is not unpleasant; I found it to be quite nice.  Then you go over to one of the sinks and throw water over your body with the plastic bowls to rinse off.  You may wait a while before the second part.  They will call you over for the second part of the massage which is the best part.  You lay down your sarong, which is soaked through and not much more than a wash rag at this point and lay face down on top of it.  They have these really neat net-like bags that have soap in them.  They blow in one end, close it up, and then, similar to milking a cow, run their hands down the bag and tons of soap bubbles come out through the netting on the other side.  It was really neat.  They rub you down with the soap bubbles and give you a great, but quick, massage, front and back.  I had a large lady who got into my back muscles really good, which, by this time in our trip, I needed it!  Later, Chris told me his massage was also very rough, in a good way.  He was very pleased.

From there, we rinsed off with the bowls again, and then there is this fantastic freshwater pool to finish off the experience.  It is raised up high toward the ceiling and you climb a little ladder to get in.  At the top is a simple, square pool of warm freshwater which I thoroughly enjoyed swimming in.

All in all, it was a wonderfully relaxing and unique experience and we were disappointed we couldn’t fit one more bathhouse visit in before we left Istanbul.  Chris and I would do it again in a heartbeat.

When we were finished, we went back to our changing rooms and got dressed for the last part of our adventure with The Other Tour.

View of bathhouse front from the street.

View of bathhouse front from the street.

Turning back this is the view of the street as you enter/exit.  That is The Other Tour van that dropped us off :)

Turning back this is the view of the street as you enter/exit. That is The Other Tour van that dropped us off :)

Ducking in from the street, there is a sign letting you know women and men can enter the bathhouse here...

Ducking in from the street, there is a sign letting you know women and men can enter the bathhouse here…

Heading down the steps into the entrance hall.

Heading down the steps into the entrance hall.

Warm, clean welcome area

Warm, clean welcome area

Upper and lower floors of changing rooms with a pretty, plaster, domed ceiling overarching the area.

Upper and lower floors of changing rooms with a pretty, plaster, domed ceiling overarching the area.

One last picture of the sign as we leave...

One last picture of the sign as we leave…since 1475!?  I hope that is true, this is going in the book!

Day 9: The Other Tour – Jewish ghetto and Rum neighborhoods

After our wonderful lunch, we got back on our bus and traveled back towards the old city.  We stopped in Balat, the Jewish ghetto neighborhood in the Fatih district, which is on the western bank of the Golden Horn.  It began to rain when we got out to walk around so our gracious guides bought us umbrellas and we roamed the streets in the softly pattering rain.

Our guides explained that when the Jewish ghetto neighborhood was first formed a very long time ago, it was a major banking district.  We walked from this neighborhood into the Rum neighborhood next to it, Fener.  From history, we know that there was an ebb and flow to the population of Istanbul.  These two neighborhoods have actually been empty on occasion.  Most recently, the 1923 population exchange between Greece and Turkey emptied out these neighborhoods, essentially turning them into a ghost town.  Of course, currently they are full of people.

Trevor expressed disappointment that it was raining because normally the tour would get to meet locals, see children playing and people happily spending time outdoors.  For me, it was a lucky coincidence that the rain kept the streets mostly empty.  My book takes place in 1938 when the neighborhoods would have been empty and I took tons of pictures!  The location is actually quite perfect for some key scenes in the book and I went picture crazy with my iphone.

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Look closely in the background, you can get a glimpse of The Red Castle between the buildings...

Look closely in the background, you can get a glimpse of The Red Castle between the buildings…

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Trevor led us through the rain-slicked streets to what is known as The Red Castle in the Rum neighborhood.  It is actually a school established in 1454 exclusively for the Rum community of Istanbul.  Trevor told us the story that the Rums were the only citizens who cooperated with the Ottomans when they took over Istanbul and were rewarded with a guarantee from the rulers that they would always have this school.  Apparently, it was such an important provision that they made sure the school’s continued support was included Treaty of Lausanne after WWI.  I have to admit, I have not found anything about the school online to back up this story, but it is fascinating to think about.  Here is the school on Wikipedia: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phanar_Greek_Orthodox_College.  We were able to get exclusive access to go inside the gate and walk around its courtyard.  The building is breathtakingly lovely and the view from the high steps in the courtyard is fantastic.

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Another unexpected highlight came just after we left the school.  Trevor explained the streets we were traveling along were used to film important scenes in the movie Taken 2.  We stopped and took pictures at a gate where Liam Neeson filmed scenes killing some bad guys!  Silly, I know, but I just love Liam Neeson.

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I can't tell you how enthusiastic Chris was during our whole trip with all the stray animals - here he is with a kitten.

I can’t tell you how enthusiastic Chris was during our whole trip with all the stray animals – here he is with a kitten. He would have taken them all home if he could.

Where Liam Neeson once stood.  We saw the movie when we got home, it's really there!

Where Liam Neeson once stood. We saw the movie when we got home, it’s really there!

This is directly across from the gate, a clear shot of this is also in the movie :)

This is directly across from the gate, a clear shot of this is also in the movie :)

Day 9: The Other Tour — Kurdish school and homemade Turkish lunch

The next part of our tour was Christopher’s favorite.  After we docked back on the European side we got back on the bus and took it to a very unique area of town high up on a beautiful hillside overlooking the Bosphorus.  Trevor told us the story of how a while back the Kurdish citizens of Istanbul were fed up with the government not spending any tax dollars in the Kurdish areas of the country.  So, overnight, they moved en mass onto a beautiful area of land with a gorgeous view, originally both privately owned and government owned.  The land had been set aside for eventual real estate development, but the Kurds moved onto it by building these gecekondu structures and refused to leave.  Unfortunately, this set off decades of conflict in the area between the government and the Kurdish people as the government tried to intimidate them into leaving.

Today, it seems they are left alone for the most part, but the neighborhoods are very poor and have very little government funded utilities.  Our guides brought us to a Kurdish school in the neighborhood where we mingled with the children and watched a music class.  Chris loved it.  It was so much fun to see the kids, all so happy in their uniforms, excitedly asking for us to take their pictures with our phones so they could see themselves.  It was a really nice experience.

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From there we headed out to the suburbs of Istanbul for a home cooked lunch by Fethi’s mother and her friend.  Some of the best food you could ever have!  We also walked through a marketplace on the way to their home in a walk-up apartment building.  I was quite uncomfortable the whole time as I had to go to the bathroom and embarrassed myself tremendously by rushing everyone along.  It is my firm belief that every single vacation I ever have will include an embarrassing event where I need to go to the bathroom at an inopportune time.  So humiliating!

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It was worth the ride out, though, as the food was to die for and the company was fantastic.  Everyone gathered together around low tables sitting on pillows talking and laughing with Trevor and Fethi and Fethi’s family.

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Day 9 – The Other Tour: Cruise on the Bosphorus and Kanlica yogurt

I can easily say that this was my favorite part of the tour, one of my favorite parts of the whole trip, in fact.

From the café, we all climbed onto a very nice boat and road through the choppy, dark waters of the Bosphorus.  It was a little cloudy, but the air was cool and fresh and our guide talked during the trip about all the yalis built along the coastline on both the Europe and Asian sides.  These mansions were a big deal back in the day, during the Ottoman rule they were popular summer homes for the wealthy.  During the 1930s they began tearing them down to make room for apartment buildings, but a few remain, still owned by the extremely wealthy.  If I remember correctly, the remaining yalis are protected by the government because of their cultural significance.  You can take a tour of one of them, the oldest still standing, but we couldn’t fit it into this trip.  If I go back, that is on my to-do list for sure.

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I took tons of pictures, of course.  I had read a lot about the yalis and it was really exciting to see them in real life.  They are mostly made of wood and were difficult to heat in the winter time due to the cold winds blowing in from the water.  Many have been renovated today with modern luxuries like one Trevor told us about owned by some famous wealthy family in Turkey that had a pool put in with a glass wall between it and the Bosphorus.  They look really nice.

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We docked on the Asian side in a little town called Kanlica.  It is known for its special yogurt, a recipe this town has been making for hundreds of years that is not replicated anywhere else in the world.  We headed into a little café not far from where we docked and sat at a table overlooking the water.  It was lovely, picturesque.  Servers brought out little plastic tubs of yogurt for each of us.  There was a thin film of honey at the top and bowls of powdered sugar on the tables to heap into the tubs when the honey ran out.

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This yogurt was heavenly.  It has no preservatives, no processing, made fresh every morning and served at restaurants and cafés same day.  I never tasted anything like it.  It is creamy and sweet with a little bit of a rough texture, but it was a melt-in-your-mouth sort of texture.  The honey and especially the powdered sugar complemented it perfectly.  I would have gladly eaten many more of those little tubs of yogurt if I could have.

Our "We went to Asia" picture!

Our “We went to Asia” picture!

Trevor on the ride back across

Trevor on the ride back across

Our guides!

Our guides!

Oh, we'll be back...

Oh, we’ll be back…

Day 9 – The Other Tour: Ortakoy and Babek

Early in the morning, Chris and I are excited to begin!

Early in the morning, Chris and I are excited to begin!

The Other Tour had arrangements to meet us at our hotel and take us to the rendezvous point for the whole group.  They met us in our hotel lobby and took us on a quick cab ride over to just outside of Dolmabahce Palace.  We met our guide and piled into a nice transportation van with the rest of the group.  This was a group tour unlike the tour we had taken the day before so we got to meet lots of lovely fellow travelers.  I want to say our group was about 10 in total, but I didn’t count.  It was not too big, though, just right.

From there, we rode up to a little area on the water called Ortakoy.  Stepping out of the van, we were introduced to our fellow group members and our tour guides, Fethi and Trevor.  Fethi created the tour and explained that it is his dream to provide travelers all around the world with experiences they couldn’t have normally.  He wants to expand what he is doing eventually to other cities, but for now, lucky for us, it is in Istanbul.  Trevor ran the tour for us.  He is an American living in Istanbul and informally adopted by Fethi’s family.  Turns out he was originally from Colorado, so that was pretty cool.

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Trevor

We began with an introduction to the tour while standing beside the water in Ortakoy.  It was pretty empty that early in the morning, but gets busier later in the day as we found out a couple days later.  The boys took us to a little kumpir stand and ordered a couple for everyone to try.  This was essentially a GIANT baked potato with tons of filling like butter, cheese, pickles, corn, sausage, carrots, and more!

A little side alley in Ortakoy, not too many people eating Kumpir this early in the morning!

A little side alley in Ortakoy, not too many people eating Kumpir this early in the morning!

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From there, we loaded back into the bus and headed north through an area called Babek.  They explained that this area is all the wealthy and expensive neighborhoods.  We stopped at a café where they got us Turkish coffee and tea and where we could all use the facilities.  This is where we were able to sit down and take it all in, get to know our guides, and ask any questions of them that we wanted.  I let them know that I am working on a book based in Istanbul, so to tell me anything they knew about the history of where we would go that day.  I was very excited.  From the café we prepared to go on our Bosphorus cruise!

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Ortakoy, we come here a couple days later in the afternoon and it was much more lively.

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Walking around a little to get to the cafe, the boys show us where they live.

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Day 9 – The Other Tour: Scratching the surface of Istanbul

We began our second full day in Istanbul the same as the last.  We got up early and had breakfast in the gorgeous executive lounge where the Hilton provided an assortment of nuts and fruits, coffees, teas, cereals, eggs, quiche, everything.  I grew very attached to the freshly pealed hazelnuts they put out every morning and would load them up over corn flakes and pour milk over it for one of the best breakfasts of all time.  Hazelnuts are one of Turkey’s staples and they are so damn good!

Poor silly us, we booked a second tour the very next day after walking around the historic district for over 8 hours the first day!  My original idea was to get all the tours done in the beginning so we’d know more about what we wanted to see on the second half of our time in Istanbul.  This may have been a mistake as, by the end of the day, we were so exhausted we almost slept through dinner.  We scheduled the number one rated tour on TripAdvisor called The Other Tour for day 9.

You can learn more about The Other Tour and their mission at their site:  http://www.theothertour.com/ and read reviews on TripAdvisor.  For my purposes, I will say that we were very excited to find something like this, as it gives a tourist a better glimpse of the culture of the city and its history as well as giving you tons of experiences you might have missed all wrapped up in a crazy 12 hour long extravaganza.  We enjoyed it immensely and recommend it highly to anyone visiting Istanbul.  Since our whole trip to Istanbul was to get a sense of the city, its culture, and history for the book I am writing, we couldn’t have been happier to go along for this ride.

This day was jam packed with information and experiences and I’d like to go into more detail on every one of them.  So, I am going to list everything we did in order below and then I’ll do a post about each experience individually.  I don’t want to leave anything out.  So here goes:

Ortakoy and Babek

Cruise on the Bosphorus and Kanlica yogurt

Kurdish school

Homemade Turkish lunch

Jewish ghetto and Rum neighborhoods

Okey in a café and Turkish bath

Dinner with live traditional Turkish band